Monthly Archives: October 2014

Day 34 – Santiago de Compostela – Sightseeing

Today we spent a day just sightseeing. We started the day at the Cathedral with a walk around the various chapels. Mass was being conducted in English in one of the side chapels.

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On arrival at the cathedral pilgrims enter via the main steps and just inside the door is a stone pillar that for centuries pilgrims have touched on arrival, their hands have worn groves into the stone.

Finger marks in stone pillar

Finger marks in stone pillar

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We visited St James tomb, but no pictures allowed inside.

Entrance to St James Crypt

Entrance to St James Crypt

We spent some time in the cathedral museum and library.
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We were able to go up through the museum to a balcony that had a good view over the plaza in front of the cathedral.

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While we were at the Cathedral, the pilgrims mass was conducted, and the Botafumeiro was bring used.

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After mass (the 3rd in two days) we went to lunch at the Parador across the plaza. The meal was very nice, and washed down by a bottle of Spanish sparkling wine (cava), we celebrated returning to normality.
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After lunch, happy.

After lunch, happy.

We then took the tourist train around the city.

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Then back to the hotel for a rest, before going out for Tapas in the evening.

Tapas

Tapas

 

Enjoying Tapas

Enjoying Tapas

Signing off now, this is my last post. ADIOS.

 

 

Day 33 – O’Pedrousa to Santiago de Compostela

Well we made it. We arrived in Santiago de Compostela today after a hard days slog in the pouring rain. It had rained most of yesterday, all last night and today. This meant that the tracks had turned into creeks and rivers. It made for slow progress. Of the 21km’s today 16km were in the pouring rain.
We stopped at about the half way mark and took shelter in a cafe, where we opted for a hot coffee and a sock change. It’s surprising how good dry socks feel.

We waited for a break in the rain before setting off again.

About 5km out of Santiago de Compostela a large monument has been erected at Monte de Gozo to honour the pilgrims.

It was a bit of a slog from Monte de Gozo into Santiago de Compostela, through industrial areas and the suburbs.

We had to stop with about 1.5km to go for a vino and tapas.

When we arrived at the Cathedral we got a little lost in the narrow streets near the cathedral. But eventually found our way there.

The cathedral is undergoing major renovations.

After that we found the Pilgrims office, where obtained our Compostela’s.

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Day 32 – Arzua to O’Pedrousa

We had a full day walking in the rain. Paths turned into creeks, dirt turned into mud. We had to watch our step or end up ankle deep in water and mud. Yes we got a little wet!

A drowned rat

A drowned rat

It would have been a nice walk if it had been sunny, through tree covered laneway’s, farms, fields, villages, etc. It’s like walking through the Dandenong or Macedon ranges. The tracks are lined with ferns, gum trees and pine trees.

The pics are few and far between when it’s raining.

One of things we have noticed is that as we near a city, or as we we get closer to Santiago the graffiti and defacing of signage is increasing. Maybe some people really don’t want to be on the Camino.
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O’Pedrousa is not a large town and seems to be built along the main road. Our accommodation is a little out of town, and we walked back into town for something to eat. It rained again so we had to wait for the rain to stop before heading back to our hostel.

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Tomorrow onto Santiago.

Day 31 – Melide to Arzua

Today we had our first day walking in the rain, and we got wet through.
Our packs survived well with their covers over them, and even though we used our ponchos we still got wet.

Janice had an old dog adopt her on the trail, it walked with us for a while and then moved on. We think we have seen it ahead of us at several towns.

We came across a man in the forest that had set up a stand selling t-shirts and providing stamps for credentials, for a donation. What learnt later that he was a Romanian para Olympian (he had an artificial leg) and was raising funds to provide artificial legs for others.

Walking into one of the towns we went to the church to have a look, and were met by the priest outside the church. He was meeting and greeting everybody. We sat in the church for a little while before continuing our journey. It wouldn’t be a day on the Camino if we didn’t have a hill to climb.

Our accommodation tonight is much nicer than last night. We have experienced the highs and lows of accommodation now.

Last night we were the only people in the Albergue, I think word had spread about it. It wasn’t great, mould on the walls, dodgy showers, windows that opened onto another room instead of the outside. At least it was quite.

We found a nice little bar near the Albergue last night where the owner really enjoyed his work, the wine and the food was good. We went back in the morning for breakfast and had churros.

Two days to go! The weather forecast is not great.

Day 30 – Palas del Rei to Melide

Today was not going to be a long day, we have broken up 30km+ section into 2 days. Leaving town we followed the arrows as usual, however this town also had a statue pointing the way.
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The walk was not too hard as we took it easy and had a couple of stops along the way. The first at Casanova,

Casanova

Casanova

Even the cows were taking it easy.
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There were a few Eucalyptus plantations along the way today.
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We walked over rolling hills, down country lanes and over small creeks.
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Tomorrow we will have been on the road a month and we will only have 3 days to go before reaching Santiago de Compostela.

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Day 29 – Portomarin to Palas del Rei

Last night we stayed in a very nice hotel, it even had a gym and swimming pool. Slight problem, we didn’t feel like any more exercise and the pool was green. The must only have the filters turned on during summer.

All along the trip we see signs warning motorists of deer crossing the road, we actually saw 3 or 4 deer today, running through a clearing in the forest. They were moving too quick to get a photo.
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We often see Hydrangeas in gardens or beside the road, Janice snapped a photo of these.(Janice is actually the photographer for this blog).
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The path today took us through rolling hills, what would be day on the Camino without a hill or two, and through fields of corn as well as Eucalyptus tree plantations. It is Autumn here and the trees are starting to lose their leaves, we have been walking along paths lined with oak trees. The leaves have been falling, as have the acorns. The path’s are littered with fallen acorns.

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Once again we managed our arrival timing well, just as we arrived into Palas del Rei it started to rain. After we settled and we went to the bar to get a drink and snack pilgrims were arriving after having to walk in the rain.
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Day 28 – Sarria to Portomarin

Another day, another hill. We started out from Sarria this morning and it was still a little foggy. The first hill was almost out our front door and up the steps towards the monastry.

Beginning the next stage, leaving Sarria

Beginning the next stage, leaving Sarria


Yes, up these stairs

Yes, up these stairs

For a while we walked through fields and over hills in the fog, it eventually cleared to be a nice sunny day.

Most of the walking today was through tree lined tracks or on quite country roads.

Nice tree lined track

Nice tree lined track


Quite country roads

Quite country roads

When we reached Portomarin we had a very long bridge to cross over the river, where the town used to be. The original,town was flooded about 20 years ago to make a new reservoir. The new town is across the river and half way up the hill.

Where Portomarin used to be.

Where Portomarin used to be.

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Day 27 – Tricastela to Sarria

We stayed at a Pension/Albergue last night and they don’t offer any meals or other services. So we walked down the street as soon as it was light for a typical camino breakfast of orange juice, toasted roll and jam, and coffees. The day started normal enough with a walk uphill. The village was in a valley so to leave it we had to walk uphill, again. It was a steady climb along leafy country roads and tracks, through rolling hills and pastures.

A nice leafy country track

A nice leafy country track

A stony track, a little hard on the feet.

A stony track, a little hard on the feet and knees.

We walked through a number of villages and hamlets, some of which seems to have no name, but all had big farm dogs doing what farm dogs do. Chase cows or sleep.

We were walking along the path minding our own business and our track disappeared into a creek.

A view cross the fields, we entered the fog later.

A view across the fields, we entered the fog later.


Not many of the villages presented an opportunity for a break early in the walk. We came across a village with a cafe only after we had entered the fog.
A old forest, going into the fog.

Going into the fog.


It stayed foggy almost all the way to a Sarria.

Sarria is about 112km from Santiago de Compostela, this is the minimum distance required to be completed to earn a Compostela.

We have filled out our original credentials, and we went to the church in Sarria to obtain additional credentials to continue our journey to Santiago de Compostela.

We walked up the hill that we will walk over tomorrow to have a look at Sarria.

Cross on top of hill in Sarria

Cross on top of hill in Sarria

View of Sarria

View of Sarria

As usual the path we walked during the day.
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Day 26 – O’Cebrerio to Tricastela

We started off after first light, and we were going downhill for a while, but we still had to get over Alto do Poio, the highest point on this mountain range. For most of the day we were above the clouds, and the valleys were full of fog.

The view towards Santiago de Compostela

The view towards Santiago de Compostela

The paths, while rocky at times, were generally quite good and tree lined.
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At times it seemed we were walking on paths that had been carved over hundreds of years by the feet of millions of pilgrims.

The views were of rolling hills, and patchwork fields.
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Of course cows have right of way, this includes the farmer on his donkey and his German Shepherd dog (called Killer).

During our walk today we passed through a number of small villages, at one of them was possibly the smallest church. It wasn’t open but it could not have held more than 20 people.

Vestry small church

Very small church

At another village we were stopped by a little old lady, selling the pancakes she had made. From milk from her own cows and eggs from her own chickens, and she pointed to the cows in her shed and chickens running around the yard. The were very nice.

At another village they were selling fresh raspberries and cranberries they had picked. They were very fresh and nice also.

Fresh, fresh, fresh

Fresh, fresh, fresh


When we arrived into the town we rewarded ourselves with a nice glass of a Vino in the shade.

Relaxing

Relaxing

We were reminded we are in Galicia with its Celtic heritage as some Pilgrims were piped into town.