Author Archives: Russ

The day started out well, we were expecting a little rain and we got some later in the day. As well as a bit of thunder. The walk took us over a number of rolling hills, through small towns and many vineyards.

We stopped for lunch in a small park in a “new” town, it looks to have been completely built in the last 10 years. With modern sports facilities,a golf course, swimming pool etc.

We are over the 200km mark, passing a way point that stated 562km to go.

My feet are starting to fall apart I have 6 blisters and seem to have lost the end of one toe. Not really, the blister was so large it took off a callous from the end of the toe.

We arrived at our hotel just in time, as soon as we had settled in it began to hail. (See the photo). The temperature dropped slightly, then went back ip up to 26-28c. Most of the vineyards we have walked through have a lot of ripe grapes ready to be picked. I hope the hail didn’t do too much damage.

We went to mass in the cathedral de La Calzada, Santo Domingo de la Calzada they have 2 live chickens. If you want to know why follow this link http://www.english.catedralsantodomingo.es/santo_domingo.html, it’s a long story.

Today was a better day, we started the walk through parklands, and past a very good graffiti mural, on through more parklands with swans, and very large fish (carp) in the water. The path varied over rolling hills and through vineyards. We stopped for lunch in Navarette, and watched the Spanish equivalent of the the Tour de France, La Vuelta road race go through town. At the same time a wedding was under way, with the groom being “escorted” to the alter by a motorcycle gang (all) wearing weird fluffy animal helmets. The bride arrived later and couldn’t cross the road as the police had blocked the road for the cycle race to pass. After lunch we pressed on, the path meandered out of town through some unattractive semi industrial areas and into more vineyards.
Not much shade, and the weather changed and started to lightly rain. We used our built in pack covers for the first time. Then it cleared up and became hot and humid again.

The Hostel Hospira was our final destination, and is a nice surprise. The lady running it is very nice, speaks English, and was apologetic about our room. I don’t know why, we have a 3 bed room to ourselves, aircon, tv, free wifi. It might have something to do with the shower/bathroom which had a ceiling height of well under 2 metres, even Janice has to sit down to shower. But this is the Camino, everything is different to what we normally expect. A couple of things I have learnt so far, 1) the camino will provide, 2) expect your norms to be challenged.

Walking through vineyards

Starting to look a little worse for wear.

Fish (carp) and lots of them

Red wine grapes, almost ready for picking.

Oops, 44km in 10.5hrs. There were some very long stretches today, and surprise, surprise some more hills. Some not so small. We made it to Viana, and we couldn’t walk any further so we got a taxi for the last 9km to Logrono. So much for taking 2 days to do this in 2 legs. It wasn’t intentional, we just kept going to the next town until we couldn’t go any further. We stopped at a bar in the outskirts of Viana, booked a hotel in Logrono and had the bar owner call us a taxi. We have treated ourselves to a proper hotel, with beds, linen and aircon. However this has got us out of the area serving the Camino, so we have to deal things like Spanish dinner time is 9pm onwards. No meals are served in restaurants, bars, cafe before this time. Yes you can get Pinchos, and drinks but after a long walk one wants a proper meal, meat and 3 veg please.

The feet are not great today, I have several large blisters. Which have burst.
Trying to deal with them using Compeed patches.

On the road again.

One of many very pretty Spanish towns

The never ending road

Day 6, and wow what a day. We made over the 100km mark, we have done about 120km. So the 800km is looking more realistic. Today 31km and 10hrs. The mountains slow us down. 😦
We started the day before first light, had a little difficulty staying on the right path. Fortunately lots of other pilgrim’s were already on the road so we followed everyone else. It wasn’t so hot today, but the sun is pretty fierce. We walked past a winery (Bodega) that serves free wine to pilgrims out of a tap in the wall. We got there in time to get just a taste.

We have stopped in Azqueta at a Casa Rural. Basically someones home and they have turned the top floor (3rd) into 3 bedrooms and a common area. There appear to be about 5 or 6 other people staying here. The building is made of stones, and looks very old. A communal dinner is served at 7:30pm. We stopped here as we didn’t think we could get over the next mountain to the next town, and sleeping under the stars in a field is not that appealing.

We will probably get moving early, to get over the mountain before it gets too hot. The next city is Logorno, about 54km away. It will probably take us 2 days to get there.

On the crest of the hill after a 12km climb

Day 5 was a long day. We started a little later than planned and the temperature rose to 32c during the day. Once again the Camino put a mountain in the way. A gradual 12 km ascent out of Pamplona to a height of about 900 metres, then down over a distance of 3km. I swear descending is harder than ascending. At the peak of the mountian are very famous statues of pilgrims, cut out of metal. Also this area is full of windmills generating power. We coved 24.6km over a period of 8.5 hours, we stopped for an hour for lunch in the shade of an old church, next to their fountain. A little shop was baking bread and made Bocadillio’s to order. We had a very nice Jamin and tomato roll and a can of drink for €2.7 each.
With the increasing temperature, our water consumption increased. I averaged 1 litre for each 5km. Fortunately the towns had a fountain or two of potable water we could drink and refill our water bottles, usually located near the church or in the town square (plaza mayor).

We stopped for a rest as often as we could in the shade. I think we both got a little sunburnt, even though I refreshed my sunscreen 3-4 times during the day.
We arrived at Puenta La Reina thoroughly exhuausted, the hotel is an oasis. This is the first place we have stayed at in Europe this trip that has in room aircon. Absolute heaven. We went down for dinner, they serve an all you can eat Pilgrims Buffet, and unlimited wine or beer for £8/persona. We needed the carbs!

We might be starting to fall apart, Janice just found she is loosing a toenail. It has been hurting all day. Probably the first of many for both of us.

The Camino was kinder to us today, we started out in the cool of the morning with a short hike up hill and out of town. The trail followed the path of a river for most of the day. The temperature reached about 26c, but was dry and

sunny. We had few hills to climb today, but nothing like previous days.

Today trail map 

so about 22.4 km covered in about 7hrs 20min. The pace is a lot slower than our training runs, probably to the uneven ground and hills.

We made it to Pamplona, and have been to the Hemingway bar, the streets where they have the running if the bulls and we had Pinchos (tapas) and a vino for dinner. Sitting at our hostel now having a wine, chips and nuts.

A little worse for wear, we probably walked another 7km around Pamplona sightseeing. Tomorrow’s a big day, we have 25km to cover in 31c heat.

Arrived Pamplona

Pamplona streets

Iruna Bar, Hemmingway’s hangout

The morning was absolutely magnificent, clear skies and that after the rain clean smell to the air. We started on flat land, walking through wooded paths and farmland. The path started to go through a few rolling pastures.
But oh boy! If we thought the last of the mountains was behind us, we were wrong. Hills of 300 – 400 metres on well maintained paths were testing.
But the big one was 900 metres, straight over the top and down the other side. This path consisted of loose stones and shale and times was nothing more than a storm washout. Sorry no photos of this as we were to busy concentrating on staying upright. We had to use muscles that we thought had long ago gone into retirement. Anyway we made it to Zubiri after 7.5 hours, and a good days walk.

The hotel we stayed in for the night, is called La Posada. It was used in the making of the movie “The Way”.

Before dinner we attended the Pilgrims Mass at the local church. Where Janice received a Pilgrims blessing.

Then to dinner with a group of Pilgrims, one of the guys on our table had started walking his Camino in Belgium.

We had very heavy storm during the night. It came in through the roof in the room. Other parts of Spain suffered very heavy flooding and storm damage.

The hotel “La Posada”

The church at Roncevalles

St James

Sunday – we started out early this morning, about 7:45am it was a clear beautiful morning. We continued our walk up and over the Pyrenees. Then down the other side to Roncesvalles, and walking down was as hard as walking up. It was very steep. We stopped about half way at a van selling fruit, drinks, etc which appeared to run by some local shepherds. They herd goats, cows and horses, there are no fences and the animals are free to roam wherever they like.  It was not as hot today, nor as humid so the walking was very pleasant.

Sunrise Day 2 over the French Pyrenees

A map of today’s walk from Orrison to Roncesvalles. All up about 17.7km

Cows, this time behind a fence. Further up the mountain they roamed free.

Goats roaming free

Horses roaming free.

An emergency shelter on the Pyrenees crossing.

The French Spanish border in Basque Country.

A water fountain spouting water straight of a spring on the mountain.

The walk down hill to Roncesvalles was very steep and went through some very nice forests

Started our crossing of the Pyrenees today (Saturday) Up hill all the way. We covered about 8km today and walked up about 800metres. It was hard work, weather is warm and sunny, (24c) and humid. Maybe 65-70% humidity. This makes the walk hard work. The views are amazing.

Our Albergue at Orrison

The view early in the morning looking back towards St Jean Pied de Port

A map of the walk from St Jean Pied de Port to Orrison. ALL UP HILL!

Jan walking up the hill to Orrison.

We arrived at our start point today (Friday) . Getting here was a case of Planes, trains and Automobiles. (and buses). We took 3 trains from Aubergine, Paris to Orly airport (one of which was totally automated (no driver) then a flight to Biarritz airport, taxi from the airport to Gare Bayonne (Bayonne train station) , then a train to Cambon les bains. Normally the train runs all the way to St Jean Pied de port however heavy rains and floods have washed away the tracks in several places. The train was replaced by a bus from this point.

The train line followed the river very closely and would have been very scenic route. At one spot the flood bad washed away an old stone bridge and the tracks were left suspended in mid air. SJPDP Is a very scenic little town in the foothills of the Pyrenees.

We have registered at the Pilgrims office in town and collected our Camino credentials (which we need to show along the way and get stamped) , and our scallop shells.