Started out a bit slower due to the hotels breakfast timing of 8am, but quickly got going once I was on the road. I did the first 2 km in about 25 minutes , but slower later as I started to go into the hills. But felt strong and wondered why my pack was feeling so light. I stopped and unpacked it and checked but everything was there.
Being Sunday nothing is open early, I still had some fruit and trail mix and an energy drink to tide me over.
Those of you following the distances I walk will know it’s impossible to walk from Soto del Barco to Catarvio in a day, it’s 83km.
I walked to Soto de Luina and hopped on a train for a while and then walked to Catarvio. So all up about a 25km walk. The reason for this is that from Soto de Luina there is a very steep and high mountain that takes a full day to cross, (total elevation of about 1km) plus I was a couple of days behind schedule. Interestingly even the locals in Soto de Luina said not to cross the mountain, pointing me to the bus stop or train station.
I met the 3 young Americans again today and their mother had joined them for a few days. They had decided to catch the bus around the mountain. The train went through a tunnel.
I also came across the Chinese lady Janice and I had met several times before, she was coming out of an Albergue as I was passing.
The train had a few pilgrims, identifiable by their backpacks and scallop shells. The train went in to Ribadeo which is my next stop. I’ll walk.
Today’s hike, predictably, went up and down quite a few hills. It started to teasingly move towards the sea, then moved inland up a hill.
I started to notice wildflowers in bloom, a couple of weeks ago there was none now they are everywhere. I guess you notice different things when you can clear your mind of the everyday. Time to smell the roses?
I had lunch in Soto de Luina at a small hotel, they had a Menu del Dia, but it was a little different to many of the others I had tried. The hotel was a family affair with the sons waiting tables, dad behind the bar and Nona and mum in the kitchen. They were very attentive and wanted to know where I was from and where I was going, dad came out from behind the bar with a map and explained the route and how to avoid the mountain. I explained to him I was catching the train and this seemed to please him even though I thought he was as trying to sell me a room in his hotel for the night. Very nice it was too but I already had a booking elsewhere.
My walk from Cartavio train station, which is in the middle of nowhere, was only a few km to the Camino. I am staying in a family home, that has about 4 rooms. It is interesting, when I arrived they asked what time I would like dinner ( I think I’m the only guest), they have a pool, and where I am sitting now, an honesty bar. (Love it). I have made myself a couple of Spanish G&T’s and sitting in the shade. It’s 7:30pm and the sun is still brightly shining. I think tomorrow is the summer solstice, longest day shortest night etc.
Prices are ok
Russ and Jan's Camino 