Again another wonderful day for a walk. Sunny, light breeze, 24-26c – EVERYDAY.
We started the day with a couple of espresso’s, downstairs at the cafe beneath the hotel Again super cheap E0.6 each.
We made a change to the plan and skipped the walk along the motorway from Villa Franca de Xira to Ajambuja. After yesterdy’s near misses walking along the highway we were worried that this would be too dangerous. So we caught the train, for Euros2.1 each and in 15 minutes we were in Ajambuja. From there we started our walk along country roads, through fields and along the riverside. It’s early spring and the fields are green, farmers are planting seedlings, and early flowers are appearing. It’s a stark contrast to the dried fields and dead sunflowers from our previous Camino’s in Autumn.
Our host in Ville Franca de Xira, Mario, gave us a list of potential accommodations and contact numbers. These are run by people that are supporting the Portugues Camino and opening up their homes and business in the Camino style. So we called one of the numbers for a home stay in Porte de Muge, about 18km from Ajambuja. It’s a very surprising place, a typical Portugues farmhouse in the middle of fields. (It smells like a farm, not that’s a bad thing). Room and breakfast E20 total, and a donation for a three course cooked dinner with wine. The rooms are basic, but each has 2 beds and ensuite bathroom. Want air-conditioning – open the window.
Part of the walk through fields was along an old Roman road. You could still see and walk on the cobblestones laid by the roman slaves. We also walked along raised flood levies that have been built over the centuries to protect the local villages from the river Tejo when it floods.
So here we are in Porte de Muge, sitting under a huge fir tree that’s at least 100 years old in a farmhouse yard drinking red wine and eating fresh bread and cheese.
Russ and Jan's Camino 