Monthly Archives: September 2014

On the crest of the hill after a 12km climb

Day 5 was a long day. We started a little later than planned and the temperature rose to 32c during the day. Once again the Camino put a mountain in the way. A gradual 12 km ascent out of Pamplona to a height of about 900 metres, then down over a distance of 3km. I swear descending is harder than ascending. At the peak of the mountian are very famous statues of pilgrims, cut out of metal. Also this area is full of windmills generating power. We coved 24.6km over a period of 8.5 hours, we stopped for an hour for lunch in the shade of an old church, next to their fountain. A little shop was baking bread and made Bocadillio’s to order. We had a very nice Jamin and tomato roll and a can of drink for €2.7 each.
With the increasing temperature, our water consumption increased. I averaged 1 litre for each 5km. Fortunately the towns had a fountain or two of potable water we could drink and refill our water bottles, usually located near the church or in the town square (plaza mayor).

We stopped for a rest as often as we could in the shade. I think we both got a little sunburnt, even though I refreshed my sunscreen 3-4 times during the day.
We arrived at Puenta La Reina thoroughly exhuausted, the hotel is an oasis. This is the first place we have stayed at in Europe this trip that has in room aircon. Absolute heaven. We went down for dinner, they serve an all you can eat Pilgrims Buffet, and unlimited wine or beer for £8/persona. We needed the carbs!

We might be starting to fall apart, Janice just found she is loosing a toenail. It has been hurting all day. Probably the first of many for both of us.

The Camino was kinder to us today, we started out in the cool of the morning with a short hike up hill and out of town. The trail followed the path of a river for most of the day. The temperature reached about 26c, but was dry and

sunny. We had few hills to climb today, but nothing like previous days.

Today trail map 

so about 22.4 km covered in about 7hrs 20min. The pace is a lot slower than our training runs, probably to the uneven ground and hills.

We made it to Pamplona, and have been to the Hemingway bar, the streets where they have the running if the bulls and we had Pinchos (tapas) and a vino for dinner. Sitting at our hostel now having a wine, chips and nuts.

A little worse for wear, we probably walked another 7km around Pamplona sightseeing. Tomorrow’s a big day, we have 25km to cover in 31c heat.

Arrived Pamplona

Pamplona streets

Iruna Bar, Hemmingway’s hangout

The morning was absolutely magnificent, clear skies and that after the rain clean smell to the air. We started on flat land, walking through wooded paths and farmland. The path started to go through a few rolling pastures.
But oh boy! If we thought the last of the mountains was behind us, we were wrong. Hills of 300 – 400 metres on well maintained paths were testing.
But the big one was 900 metres, straight over the top and down the other side. This path consisted of loose stones and shale and times was nothing more than a storm washout. Sorry no photos of this as we were to busy concentrating on staying upright. We had to use muscles that we thought had long ago gone into retirement. Anyway we made it to Zubiri after 7.5 hours, and a good days walk.

The hotel we stayed in for the night, is called La Posada. It was used in the making of the movie “The Way”.

Before dinner we attended the Pilgrims Mass at the local church. Where Janice received a Pilgrims blessing.

Then to dinner with a group of Pilgrims, one of the guys on our table had started walking his Camino in Belgium.

We had very heavy storm during the night. It came in through the roof in the room. Other parts of Spain suffered very heavy flooding and storm damage.

The hotel “La Posada”

The church at Roncevalles

St James

Sunday – we started out early this morning, about 7:45am it was a clear beautiful morning. We continued our walk up and over the Pyrenees. Then down the other side to Roncesvalles, and walking down was as hard as walking up. It was very steep. We stopped about half way at a van selling fruit, drinks, etc which appeared to run by some local shepherds. They herd goats, cows and horses, there are no fences and the animals are free to roam wherever they like.  It was not as hot today, nor as humid so the walking was very pleasant.

Sunrise Day 2 over the French Pyrenees

A map of today’s walk from Orrison to Roncesvalles. All up about 17.7km

Cows, this time behind a fence. Further up the mountain they roamed free.

Goats roaming free

Horses roaming free.

An emergency shelter on the Pyrenees crossing.

The French Spanish border in Basque Country.

A water fountain spouting water straight of a spring on the mountain.

The walk down hill to Roncesvalles was very steep and went through some very nice forests

Started our crossing of the Pyrenees today (Saturday) Up hill all the way. We covered about 8km today and walked up about 800metres. It was hard work, weather is warm and sunny, (24c) and humid. Maybe 65-70% humidity. This makes the walk hard work. The views are amazing.

Our Albergue at Orrison

The view early in the morning looking back towards St Jean Pied de Port

A map of the walk from St Jean Pied de Port to Orrison. ALL UP HILL!

Jan walking up the hill to Orrison.

We arrived at our start point today (Friday) . Getting here was a case of Planes, trains and Automobiles. (and buses). We took 3 trains from Aubergine, Paris to Orly airport (one of which was totally automated (no driver) then a flight to Biarritz airport, taxi from the airport to Gare Bayonne (Bayonne train station) , then a train to Cambon les bains. Normally the train runs all the way to St Jean Pied de port however heavy rains and floods have washed away the tracks in several places. The train was replaced by a bus from this point.

The train line followed the river very closely and would have been very scenic route. At one spot the flood bad washed away an old stone bridge and the tracks were left suspended in mid air. SJPDP Is a very scenic little town in the foothills of the Pyrenees.

We have registered at the Pilgrims office in town and collected our Camino credentials (which we need to show along the way and get stamped) , and our scallop shells.